Prevention of skin aging

Skin aging is a natural, normal and inevitable process that can be accelerated or slowed down with the combination of several factors. It is dependent on both our genetics and our daily habits.

These two types of skin aging are called intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging, respectively.

Intrinsic aging is the one we inherit through our genetics, it affects the skin as much as the internal organs by a slow and irreversible degeneration of tissues (it's a definition that's a bit scary, right?). Extrinsic aging, on the other hand, is induced by all sorts of external factors: diet, stress, sun, tobacco, pollution, etc.

INTRINSIC SKIN AGING

Intrinsic aging is physiological aging linked to our heredity. It is natural, and its rhythm is genetically determined. Gradually, the cells will enter senescence ( biological aging process resulting in an irreversible stop of the cell cycle ) and cause an alteration of the skin mechanisms. The modifications will take place mainly in the epidermis and the dermis, and to a lesser extent in the hypodermis.

• Decreased elasticity of the dermis : atrophy of the extracellular matrix resulting from a reduction and disorganization of collagen and elastin fibers. This leads to a change in skin relief (appearance of wrinkles and expression lines).

• Flattening of the dermo-epidermal junction : disappearance of epidermal ridges and elastic fibers. This leads to a reduction in the exchange of nutrients and metabolites as well as a loss of cohesion between these two skin layers.

• Decreased rate of cell renewal : dead cells accumulate and the complexion becomes duller.

• Decreased activity of the sebaceous and sweat glands : alteration of the hydrolipidic film. The skin will dry out more easily and will be more sensitive to external aggressions.

• Decrease in the number of melanocytes and communication defects between them: appearance of pigment spots (hypo or hyperpigmentation).

EXTRINSIC AGING

Extrinsic aging is caused by external elements that accelerate natural aging. It is possible to have an action on these factors and therefore it can be avoided to a certain extent.

For example, we will find:

• Tobacco : affects the yellowing of the skin, and more particularly glycation (the phenomenon of a sugar binding to a protein). Glycation directly impacts the dermis by reducing the effectiveness of collagen and elastin.

• The sun : UV-induced aging, called helioderma or photoaging, results in thickened skin, the appearance of deep wrinkles, and hypo- and hyper-pigmented lesions. It also increases the risk of benign (actinic keratoses) and malignant (carcinomas and melanomas) skin tumors.

• Air pollution : environmental pollutants are capable of inducing the generation of free radicals and reactive oxygen species. Oxidative stress occurs when there is an imbalance between the oxidative systems and the antioxidant capacities of a cell. Oxidative stress is one of the mechanisms that most affects skin aging.

• Stress : also causes the production of free radicals.

• Diet : A poor diet (high in fat, sugar, low in antioxidants) promotes oxidative stress at the cellular level.

• Sedentary lifestyle: regular physical activity promotes good oxygenation of skin tissues.

PREVENTION OF SKIN AGING

Well that's not all, but this state of the art is a blow to morale! So let's look at how we can play a proactive and positive role in preventing our skin aging. Well... for genetics, you can always go and ask your parents and grandparents for accounts, but it's not the most effective solution. So, let's look at how your cosmetic products can help to act and prevent extrinsic factors:

HYDRATION

In order to limit the alteration of the hydrolipidic film and preserve the skin's barrier function, it is necessary to hydrate the skin well. This helps to protect it from external aggressions such as pollution, to reduce irritations and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL).

For optimal hydration, choose specific treatments for mature skin that will be adapted to the level of hydration required.

SUN PROTECTION

In order to avoid premature aging, it is essential to limit exposure to UV rays . To do this, of course, favor shade, avoid exposure during critical hours of sunlight, and use suitable sun protection.

There are two types of filters used in cosmetics:

- Mineral filters , which reflect radiation,

- Chemical filters , which will absorb it.

ANTIOXIDANTS

Free radicals are very reactive molecules, possessing a single electron which, in order to associate with another electron, will try to react with everything, and very quickly.

Antioxidant-rich treatments help prevent the damage that these free radicals can cause. For example:

- Vitamin C : not synthesized by the body and must be obtained through diet.

- Vitamin E : naturally present on the surface of the skin, it is also contained in several vegetable oils (sunflower, soybean) as well as vegetables and meat.

- Retinoids : stimulate the production of collagen fibers.

- Polyphenols : ability to neutralize free radicals.

Finally, we're not going to tell you anything new by telling you that daily hygiene is the best remedy to prevent skin aging: reduce (or stop!) your alcohol and tobacco consumption, eat balanced meals and practice regular sports. We are often told this, but these habits are sometimes difficult to integrate into our daily lives.

So, everyone to our dumbbells!

And then, deep down, wrinkles are a reflection of our experience and our wisdom.